When my mom drives from Mexico City to my sister’s house in
Cuernavaca, she often stops along the way at a little shop devoted
to tamales. She’ll pick up a few dozen light, fluffy, sweet tamales,
their doughs infused with the flavor of fruits like strawberries.
These are just the thing to bring out as a special dessert at a dinner
party. Traditionally, these tamales are dyed with cochineal, the little
bug that provided the world with red coloring, but twenty drops of
red food coloring will do the trick.
MAKE THE FILLING:
★ Combine the strawberries, raspberries, sugar, vanilla extract,
and orange zest in a medium saucepan. Set the pan over mediumhigh
heat, let the mixture come to a strong simmer, and cook,
stirring occasionally, until the berries are fully softened, 3 to 5
minutes. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, let it cool to room temperature,
then blend it until very smooth.
★ Put the butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
whisk attachment. Beat the butter on high until it’s white, fluffy,
and tripled in volume (it’ll look like vanilla icing), 7 to 8 minutes.
★ Combine the tamale flour and 2¼ cups of water in a large bowl
and mix with your hands until you have a homogenous dough.
★ Reduce the mixer speed to low. Add the powdered sugar, baking
powder, and salt to the butter, then mix on medium-high
speed for 1 minute or so.
★ Alternately add the dough, 1 Ping-Pong ball–sized piece at a
time, and some of the berry puree until you’ve added them all.
Keep beating, occasionally scraping down the sides of the bowl,
until the dough looks fluffy and light, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the
dried cherries and food coloring, if using it, beating just until well
incorporated.
★ “Candy-wrap” and steam the tamales according to the instructions
on page 103. They’ll take about 1 hour to cook.